September! That time of the year again, when we get back on the road again… We being the usual suspects namely Shyam Kanjani, Amit Karia, PK Dilip Kumar and yours truly… This time we had to recalibrate our trip. We were scheduled to go to the North East on a 21 day drive through Calcutta,- Siliguri-Darjeeling- Gangtok- Yumathang- Nathu laZuluk- Kalingpong- Guwahati- Jorhat- Kaziranga- Bomdilla- Tawang- and return to Guwahati but in the light of the recent floods across Assam and the issues in Darjeeling, we thought it best to reroute ourselves and hit the road…
A quick turnaround and a new route map in hand we headed for Western Himachal, an area that is still pristine and relatively untouched compared to its country cousins to the east namely Manali and Shimla
Day 01 19th Sep 2017 Gurgaon- Palampur 535.3 Km 11 hours 15 mins
We started at 0615 and reached Murthal at 0750. We left at 0840 after breakfast, and stopped at Chakla for coffee and fuel around 1210. Having crossed Una at 1400 we decided to carry on to Palampur and arrived Taragarh our lodgings for the night around 1730. We lost about half an hour on the diversion from Zirakpur which was a bit messy to say the least.
Day 02 20th Sep 2017 Palampur- Billing- Dharamsala 94 km drive from Billing to Dharamsala 3hours
An exciting day and a long one as three of our party of four were going to relive their NCC Camp memories at Alilhal where they had attended camp back in 1975 or some such. Capt Lokendra was at hand and very sportingly showed us around . The paltan motto ‘roko toko thoko’ was an upper alright!!! Things of course have changed since way back then but the more things change, the more they remain the same and the essence and spirit remain even though the cosmetics may have altered and that stays true for spaces as well as people or at least most people…
We then drove off to Baijnath Temple and were lucky to catch the Aarti. We left around 1230 for Billing, the paragliding capital of the country and host to the World Championships as well.
We got to the landing ground and were driven up the paragliding team to the jump point at 7000′. Unfortunately the moment we reached it clouded up and we had to wait a bit for it to clear. Even more unfortunately it did clear and we had to scramble into our harnesses and before we knew it we were running against the wind with a paraglider strapped to our backs and suddenly running out of ground and we were up and away. Even more unfortunately only two of us managed the jump the other two waited for three hours but it wasn’t to be. It is a scary and exhilarating experience and if you’re struggling to stay on your seat like I was , then its a nightmare… However if one gets the chance one must experience it…
Imagine if you will a scenario where you’re perched on top of a grassy knoll at 7000′ which is 1/4th the height of Everest if you want to stretch it a bit and you’re walking about innocently gazing at the mountains around you taking in the sights, looking for a cuppa and generally at peace with the world when suddenly there’s a clamour and shouts of ‘come fast,’ ‘hurry,’ ‘ lets not lose the light’ and all of that and you find yourself dashing up a slope to be greeted by this friendly face who you realise is going to be the one instrumental in pushing you off the mountain in the next two seconds. You’re hurriedly strapped on and you’re getting a mouthful of instructions by three different voices on the fly (literally) since they don’t want to lose the light or window of opportunity and all you remember is someone saying ‘run and keep running and don’t stop’ and suddenly before you know it you’ve run out of ground and you’re up and away with a man on your back, your pilot, guide and saviour!!! Now because we did’nt have time for a proper briefing one didn’t know there was seat of sorts that one could sit on and enjoy the ride and take in the vistas. The result of the hurried jump and the fact that I was the first one off the blocks was that I was standing for most of the flight and struggling to get on that seat for the other half. Boy was that a struggle! Try as I might with the poor pilot shouting instructions behind me I couldn’t manage to get my bum on that seat! The guy was a professional and had taken part in international hang gliding competitions so I was in good hands and made it down safely in one piece.
Unfortunately two of our couldn’t take off because the weather turned again and the other guy who managed to jump had had great smooth flight… We left the landing site around 1800 and reached our lodgings Udechee Huts Mccleod Ganj Dharmsala at 2100 hours
Day 03 21st Sep 2019
At Dharamsala. A walk about near the hotel to find a waterfall which we could’nt, a drive into town for lunch and reliving old times when a bottle of glycerine showed up in the form of of a Golden Eagle beer bottle on the table and back to the hotel.
The hotel is located at a great vantage point and the owner Yaduraaj Singh and his staff are really nice and made our stay as pleasant as possible. The food and service was great.
Day 04 22nd Sep 2017 Dharamsala- Dalhousie 143 Km 3 .5 hours
After a leisurely breakfast we left for Dalhousie at 1150. Taking a scenic road and a short cut we managed a back route through Nurpur and Dunera on the Lehron road which was really nice . We arrived Dalhouse at 1520 in time for lunch and then reunited with old buddy and classmate Vikram at his Silverton Estate our abode for the night. His cottage is nestled high up on the hill with lovely verdant forests around. Large rooms and open spaces make this the ideal quiet getaway and he and his lovely wife Cherrie are the perfect hosts. Many a memory came alive as the music and alcohol flowed as did the rain ..
Day 05 23rd Sep 2017 Dalhouse- Khajjiar 20 km a little less than an 1 hour
Departure 1145 and a wrong turn saw us on a narrow road deep in slush. However we got out of that one only to land up on a sharp bend with a tree leaving little room to negotiate the vehicle on the narrow gravel road leading up to the lovely Deodar Manor our lodgings for the next two nights.
The location of this lovely cottage is just incredible and the view of the Pir Panjal range from the deck is something else. The owner Hanut and staff are at hand and perfect to a fault. The service, food and rooms are excellent and it was great spending time here. An evening sing along with the staff brought out some great local pahadi songs
Day 06 24th Sep 2017 Khajjiar- Sach Pass-Khajjiar 266 km ( 133 km each way) 10 hours
The high point of the road trip to get to the highest point… We were advised to leave early to return at a decent hour hence we were on the road at 0710. We should’ve left at 0600 would have had some time in hand.
The road through the Chamba valley is scenic. The drive takes us through the forest and on to the Ravi river through very scenic country and much like our drive through Sangla two years ago we saw a few vultures swoop down for lunch. The road takes through Sultanpur, Tissa and Bairagarh with a check point in between. The 26km km after Bairagarh to the top of Sach pass are pure hell and you find yourself on a rocky mountain high road with sharp turns and sudden climbs and an underpowered front wheel drive vehicle is not going to last long on this terrain!!! Sudden climbs take you from 2000m to 3000, 3500 m till finally you reach the top at 14400 ‘. We arrived at 1400, paid our respects at the Temple took a few shots and headed back, It had become very cloudy and cold and we couldn’t get the views of the snow lined peaks and besides the air had gotten a little rare…
We arrived back at the hotel at 1945 hours , the longest day yet with 10 hours on a dirt track but totally worth it…
Day 07 25th Sep 2017 Khajiar- Amritsar vial Paloni Mata Temple and Dalhousie 6 hours
Departure at 1015 hours for Paloni Mata Temple back through the woods and a climb… We arrived at 1105 and hiked up the ridge for half an hour to reach the Temple. The walk is beautiful and gives one a 270 degree view of the Pir Panjal and Dhauladhar range on a clear day…We left at 1300 hours and crossed Pathankot at 1515. We entered Amritsar at 1630 and decided to drive straight to the Wagah Border to catch the Ceremony at 1730, which we managed to do.
After trying to find the parking for the Golden Temple we gave up and drove through the narrow bazaars and by-lanes of the city to get to our hotel the Best Western and got ourselves a cab to the Temple…
This was our last night on the road so we hit the nearest pubs Pebbles I think it was and crashed.
Day 08 26th Sep 2017 Amritsar- Gurgaon- 592 km 10 hours
We left after a leisurely breakfast at noon and got in at 2200 hours stopping ahead of Karnal for coffee and sandwiches . The local pub Fantom with old buddy Boss closed out the road trip…
As always to good times, conversation, silence, friendship, buddies, music and the road…
Summary
Vehicle: Nissan Terrano
Duration:7 nights/8 days
Distances : 1815 km total driving
Gurgaon- Palampur 535 Km 11 hours
Palampur- Billing- Dharamsala 94 km drive from Billing to Dharamsala 3 hours
Dharamsala Dalhouisie 143 km 3.5 hours
Dalhousie – Khajjiar 22 km 1 hour
Khajiar- Sach Pass- Khajiar 266 km 10 hours
Khajjiar- Wagah Border- Amritsar 250 km 6 hours
Amritsar- Gurgaon 592 km 10 hours
(For ref: Dalhousie Jammu 305 km
Jammu Delhi 372 Km
Palampur Jwalamukhi 67 km
Dalhousie Jwalamukhi 132 km )
Fuel average 13.5 km/litre
Toll 700/-
Booze: 6 bottles of Whiskey; 20 cans of beer besides drinks at restaurants and pubs
Costs:Total 134000/-Per Head 33500/-
Road Trippin II- Lahul, Spiti, Sangla
Road Trippin III Ladakh and Zanzkar
Ravi Sasan 