September | 2019 | Ravi Sasan

Bhimtal- Nainital – Binsar – Jageshwar – Almora – Kausani – Rudra Falls – Bageshwar- Vijaypur – Chaukori – Thal – Munsiyari ( almost but not quite) – Patal Bhuvneshwar – Ranikhet…

September, that time of the year again. The month we usually take off on our little sojourn driving through parts of this beautiful land. We’ve been at it now since 2014 our motley bunch of four classmates from school and have done Ladakh twice, Spiti, Lahaul and Sangla, Western Himachal. Unfortunately we missed 2018 though two of the blokes did manage bike rides through Sikkim and parts of the south and from of them even did a road trip through Western USA earlier this year but that’s another saga.

Though we were supposed to go to the North East we deferred those plans for want if time and decided to drive through the Kumaon instead hoping to make it to Munsiyari and Dharchula.

So after getting on the phone a few times and ensuring all roads were more or less open considering the monsoons were still on, we packed up and decided to go for it kick starting the trip from Gurgaon on 1st September 2019.

Day 01 1st Sep 2019

Gurgaon – Bhimtal 327 km

We set off at 0700 driving through Gurgaon, Delhi, Ghaziabad where it started to pour heavily to reach the Meerut expressway and eventually the new merged NH9. Breakfast at Gajraula which has changed a lot now the dhabas of yore giving way to the McDonald’s and Burger Kings of the world.

We left Gajraula at 1100 and after taking the fork at Moradabad drive through Rampur and reached Haldwani for lunch at Woodpecker an old buddy and classmate’s restaurant. We then headed for our last destination of the day, Bhimtal and rolled in to Country Inn through the hills at around 5:30 pm

Day 02 2nd Sep 2019

Bhimtal – Nainital – Bhimtal 44 km

After debating whether we should do a local hike around Bhimtal or trudge up to Nainital and hike up to China Peak called so because one could see the China border on a clear day but now its known as Naini Peak. We chose the latter and set off at 1000 after breakfast.

We reached Naini at 1100 and set off for the hike from the flats at 1130 walking up through the High Court road and the Sanctuary route.

The weather was fantastic and although thundershowers were predicted and there was a bit of rain by some act of Divine Providence we didn’t get wet at all. The climb was beautiful through the woods and horse tracks, wild flowers, trees, clouds and the views… there was a time we considered going back before reaching the summit seeing many youngsters turning back halfway due to inclement weather or plain fatigue but we plodded on encouraged by the nice young woman coming down from the top telling us we were fit and it was just a short distance away. That was motivation enough to run up and finally scale the peak after 3.5 hours of walking at 2:45 pm. The peak is at 8622 feet and we’d walked up from around 6800′ or so. Not bad for a bunch of 57-58 year olds!!!

After the customary chai break and photographs it was time to trudge back down. We chose to go down another route and the walk through that section of the woods was even more spectacular. We made it down to the lake at 5:30

Spent the evening by the lake and headed back to Bhimtal after dinner. Incidentally none of the restaurants through the Kumaon serve up a beer or any alcohol so do stock up if you’re so inclined!

Day 03 3rd Sep 2019

Nainital- Bhowali – Almora – Kasara Devi- Binsar 150 km

We headed out around 1030 for our final port of call Binsar. While recording a few tracks earlier in the year for the Living Hanuman project I was told about Neb Karori Baba and his ashram now a temple just off Bhowali and we headed there first. We spent about half a hour at the beautiful temple and drove on through Almora hoping to find some lunch at Kasara Devi which we were told is mini McLeodganj but wasn’t anywhere near. Anyway we decided to try our luck at Binsar and guess what! lunch and beer at the Mahindra Resort there as we rolled in around 1430

After a leisurely lunch we moved on to our digs for the night at the KMVN in the Binsar sanctuary. The drive in is fantastic as you trudge through the lovely woods. It was getting to sundown and there was no site of the resort and at a point in the middle of the road in the dark Google Aunty said we’d arrived all there was to show for it was a tree!!! We circled back and a couple of bikers told us to turn around as we were only 800 meters and two twists round the hill away!!! Guess Google Aunty was right as the Techies in the group pointed out maybe she doesn’t read altitude ha ha!!! So the damn thing was there except directly above is only we couldn’t see a thing.

The lodge itself was situated at the very top of the sanctuary and on a clear day great vistas would be there to see…

Day 04 4th Sep 2019

Binsar – Jageshwar – Binsar 90 km

We decided to take a little jungle hike in the early morning and set off at 0645 and 45 mins later we reached Zero Point on a misty and drizzly day. Couldn’t get the views but the walk was rejuvenating and our second 8000′ hike of the trip.

We then left for Jageshwar about 50 km and the Shiva Temple believed to be one of the original 64 Jyotirlings of which only 12 remain… built about 1400 years old these temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Day 05 5th Sep 2019

Binsar – Almora – Kausani 82 km

We left at 1000 and arrived at 1330. One thing to be said about driving through Kumaon, the drives are fantastic and the roads are really good and well maintained. Maybe the Army maintains them what with the mighty Kumauni Regjment based there.

Day 06 6th Sep 2019

Kausani – Rudradhari Falls- Bageshwar- Vijaypur -100 km

We checked out after breakfast at 0940 and back tracked 12km to make our way to the starting point of the hike to Rudradhari Falls. We reached the point at 1030 after overshooting it a bit and after the hike through the beautiful woods with a local guide. There were 5 stream crossings along the route and the day was a dream. It was sunny and there was a nice breeze and an easy walk on a blissful day… the falls themselves were a sight it was quiet and there was a little poll of water and a small temple and as always lots of legend.

We reached the fall after 45 mins of walking and left at noon to return to the road at 12:30.

We then headed for Chaukori and stopped from lunch at Bageshwar by the Saryu River which for some reason was very muddy and greenish grey.

After a nice lunch at Narendra Palace we headed up to Chaukori and decided to camp at the lovely Chestnut Grove HImalayan Lodge in amongst the woods in Vijaypur. We reached around 1730 or so and settled in.

Day 07 7th Sep 2019

Vijaypur- Chaukori- Thal- Patal Bhuvneshwar- Dhukchina 220 km

It had rained really heard the previous night but we woke up to a beautiful day with there clouds below us wafting through the trees. Stepping up just a little bit we suddenly saw the entire Nanda Devi Range open up in front of us. It was magical. The clouds below us the snow peaked Himalayan range above and each mountain was clearly visible. Trishul, Nanda Kot, Nanda Devi, Panchachuli all these magnificent mountains standing tall and proud and silent was a sight to behold. We were told that the views from Munsiyari where we headed next would be even more spectacular but alas that was not to be.

We set off at about 0930 but 12 km after Thal we found workmen on the road ahead turning back all vehicles. Apparently the roads had caved in any more than one place and would be closed for the next three days at least. So at 1205 we found ourselves backtracking without a plan. Patal Bhuvneshawar the ancient Shiva Cave was on our list but we’d missed it enroute so we decided to head there and take our chances on getting there before it closes.

We reached Parvati Resort 3 km short of the Caves at 1455 for a spot of lunch. It was also the first time in our 5 Road Trips off season that we found a hotel was fully sold out which had us scurrying for plans as well but right now there was a cave to dive into.

The walk along the ridge to the Cave was nice and we were lucky to be on time and gain entry as the last ones for that day. They normally close entry at 1730.

Climbing down into the cave barefoot on slippery rock was an experience in itself though bare feet did hold better than keds would have for sure. We discovered muscles we never had as we sat and negotiated the twists and turns and boulders literally by the seat of our pants and two long chains for grips.

Once down we were 90 feet under and the world literally opened up. Believed to be as old as the Earth itself the legends surrounding the cave and the beginning of time is all set in stone through natural formations of rock and stalactites. You see the Sheshnag in all His glory, you see The Rishis and their shadows etched on the walls, you see a rock formation of the solar system as Brahma designed it, you see Kailash Mansarovar, you see the legendary thousand foot elephant and the piece de resistance the massive rock cut of Shivji’s tresses, layered white, brown and black from floor to ceiling as the 33 crore Gods pray to Him represented by 33 natural slabs in supplication.

A final bow at the inner sanctum where the Shivling is represented by all three Brahma Vishnu and Mahesh and you make your way back the same way you came. Going up is easier.

They have oxygen cylinders on standby and it is recommended that people with breathing issues and prone to claustrophobia should avoid or check with your doctors beforehand.

We decided to keep driving and shack up and close as we could to Ranikhet our final destination. We made it to Dhulchina around 9pm in the middle of nowhere and 500m off road dirt track to settle on at Binsar Oak

Day 08 – 8th Sep 2019

Dulchina – Almora- Ranikhet 77km

We left around 0930 and arrived Ranikhet at 1240 driving past Jageshwar and Almora overnight at the Chevron Rosemount. The Ranikhet Club so beautifully located unfortunately wasn’t in ship shape.

Day 09 – 9th Sep 2019

Ranikhet- Moradabad 190km

We decided to head to Moradabad and save 6 odd hours of driving time back to Gurgaon. We took an alternative route down driving through Nainital, Kaladhungi and Corbett.It was a lovely drive with the mist in and out passing by Jeoilkote. We left at 1240 and reached Moradabad at 1740 and checked in to the nice Clark’s Inn

Day 10 – 10th Sep 2019

Moradabad – Gurgaon 220km

Departure at 1030 home by 1430. High mountains to high rises…

Vehicle Volvo XC 60

Drove like a dream and for those wondering whether it’s electronics or software went out out of sync nothing did. Worked like clockwork and made the mountain its own

Total distance: 1500km

Fuel approx: 150 L ( half a tank to spare so I guess actual consumption 120-130 L)

The Usual Suspects: PK Dilip Kumar ( 3rd from left), Amit Karia (extreme right) Shyam Kanjani(extreme left) and Self (2nd from left) in the pic at the end